The correspondence of Ferdinand von Mueller: REPORT OF THE "EXPLORATION" COMMITTEE OF THE PHILOSOPHICAL INSTITUTE OF VICTORIA, ¶ Drawn up by ¶ Drs. Wilkie, Mueller, ¶ and ¶ Macadam, ¶ adopted by the Committee, and received at a ¶ Special Ge...

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MS not found. The text given here is from B58.14.01.

REPORT OF THE "EXPLORATION" COMMITTEE OF THE PHILOSOPHICAL INSTITUTE OF VICTORIA,

Drawn up by Drs. Wilkie, Mueller, and Macadam, adopted by the Committee, and received at a Special General Meeting of the Institute, held on the 22nd December, 1857.

The Committee appointed at an Ordinary Meeting of the Philosophical Institute of Victoria, held on the 11th of November, 1857, for the purpose of inquiring into the practicability of fitting out in Victoria an expedition for traversing the unknown interior of the Australian Continent from east to west, beg to offer to the members of the Institute this, the First Report of their Proceedings, and the results arrived at in their inquiries; and beg likewise to suggest such a modification in the plan originally proposed as a careful investigation of the evidence and opinions of former Australian travellers has induced them to adopt.

At the first meeting of the Committee, held on the 14th of November, a strong desire manifested itself to foster, and that speedily and with all means within their reach, the project brought under their consideration. The desirability of Victoria taking a share in the labors of revealing the unexplored portion of the interior of Australia was unanimously acknowledged, and many members of the Committee supported on that occasion, the motion of Dr. Wilkie, namely, to adhere to the line of the tropic of Capricorn as far as the nature of the country and other circumstances would permit. A resolution was adopted to the effect that an appeal be made for pecuniary support, both to the Government and the public, as also that a meeting of the colonists should be held in furtherance of the project. Mr. Bonwick was instructed to apply to A. C. Gregory, Esq., the commander of the North Australian Expedition, for the opinion of that gentleman on the proposed route, and generally, to request the advice which his valuable experience would dictate.

At the second meeting of the Committee, held on the 23rd November, the business was, on the motion of Edward Wilson, Esq., postponed, in order that the members might have the opportunity of hearing Dr. Mueller's forthcoming paper before the Institute, on the subject of "Australian Exploration."

At the third meeting of the Committee, held on the 30th November, Dr. Mueller moved, pursuant to previous notice, that the starting point, originally fixed to be Port Curtis, should be changed for the Darling, because it seemed unadvisable to send almost simultaneously an expedition from Victoria to the subtropical east coast, whilst the New South Wales Government had already intrusted to Mr. Gregory the command of an expedition in search of Dr. Leichhardt, which is to proceed from Port Curtis to the westward. He pointed out also to the additional chance which would thereby offer itself of gaining information as to the fate of Dr. Leichhardt (who it was said had fallen, with his party, into the hands of the natives, near the sources of the Maranoa.) By adopting the Darling as a starting point, Dr. Mueller said, a new and large portion of country in close proximity to the northern gold-fields of the colony of Victoria, and probably in part available for pastures, would be opened. Further, it seemed preferable to explore a new tract of country on the route to the Victoria River (of Sir Thomas Mitchell), and situated between the Darling, Grey Range, and the Warrego, than proceeding over the well known country to the Victoria River from the eastward.

Mr. Blandowski objected to this alteration in the proposed route, on account of the greater distance to be traversed ere a position on the Victoria River would be reached. He explained the difficulty of obtaining horses fit for an exploring party in the northern parts of this colony, and referred to the existence of poisonous herbs on the Darling as dangerous to such animals.

Dr. Mueller contended that poisonous herbs were not restricted to some portions of the country near the Darling, but had proved destructive to horses and other animals near Lake Torrens, in Western Australia, Arnheim's Land, and other parts of this continent, and would probably be encountered on many other lines of the country.

Dr. Mackenna, considering that already New South Wales and South Australia were engaged in new enterprises of a kindred nature, moved that Victoria should carry out the objects in view without the co-operation of the neighboring colonies. This proposition received the sanction of the Committee. It was also agreed to establish, in the event of the plan of the exploration, in its fullest extent, meeting with the approbation of the Government and the colonists, a depôt, as had been previously urged by Edward Wilson, Esq., on the junction of the Thomson with the Victoria River, in lat. about 25° S. and long. 143° E., and to convey provisions, &c., to that locality, sufficient for the party during the space of two years. The decision on the best route for accomplishing this object was postponed on the motion of the Hon. Mr. Hodgson, M.L.C., until a reply would be received from Mr. Gregory.

At the fourth meeting of the Committee, held on the 7th December, the Hon. Secretary, Dr. Macadam read the answer in reply to the communication to Mr. Gregory, which the Committee deem it necessary to insert verbatim in this report, as an important document, based on unrivalled experience.

66 Macquarie Street, Sydney,

25th November, 1857.

Dear Sir,

— I had the pleasure of receiving your letter of the 16th inst. refering to the proposal of the Philosophical Institute of Victoria to initiate proceedings for the formation of an exploring expedition, having for its object the determination of the character of that portion of the Australian interior which has as yet baffled the attempts which have been made to penetrate it.

With reference to the line suggested, simply viewing it on the map, no line could appear better chosen than that proposed, viz. the line of the tropic from E. to W.. The question however, is can this be effected with the means at present available?

Now it has been demonstrated that a party well equiped can perform a journey of equal length with that contemplated, but it is not the number of miles, but the character of the country to be traversed in which the real difficulty consists, and we should therefore enquire, what is the probable nature of the country under consideration.

First. The principal tract which is unexplored is comprised between the meridians of 115° and 140°, and the parallels of 20° and 32° of latitude, or 1,600 miles long by 800 miles wide. Its circumference is 4,500 miles, of which only 800 miles (on the N.W.) remain unexamined. Along the whole line examined (extending 3,700 miles) the universal character of the country along the boundary is level sandy desert or worthless scrub, without any sign of change in advancing into the interior beyond that of increasing sterility, caused by the greater aridity of the climate, while not one single stream emenates from this inhospitable region, to indicate ranges of hills, better soil or climate, beyond the limits of actual examination.

At what conclusion can we therefore arrive, from a consideration of the premises, except that the Interior is equally barren and forbiding with its exterior limits?

I therefore consider that it is almost hopeless to attempt to traverse this tract of country from east to west. and that the only prospect of success would be to penetrate it in the direction of its shorter diameter (north or south).

But at what point is this practicable? The whole coast of the Australian Bight, from Streaky Bay to Cape Arid, is so barren that neither sufficient water and grass exist at any spot for the formation of a depôt from which a party could start, and the result of the expedition from Streaky Bay is very discouraging.

Thus is only remains to attempt to penetrate on the northern side. But even here there is scarcely any prospect of success until that coast shall have been settled, when by forming a Depôt on the border or rather on some of the creeks within the limits of the desert early, in the season, light parties might be pushed a considerable distance into it during the short continuance of the rains.

This is certainly a somewhat gloomy view of the subject, but it is, I conceive, our duty to ascertain, as far as possible, the nature of the difficulties, to be met before encountering them, as failure must be the result unless judicious preparations are made to overcome the obstacles which interpose.

Thus reduced to the alternatives of either awaiting the sure but slow development of Australian geography, which must result from a steady adherance to the system of keeping our explorations 400 or 500 miles a-head of the settlements and gradually reducing the limits of the Australian terra incognita, or else to resort to the very doubtful, but if successful, more brilliant mode of making energetic endeavours to accomplish the result without delay. Prudence would teach us to pause where undue haste may be disasterous.

Now, as regards the route of any party which might start, under present circumstances, from the east coast, they must of necessity be prepared to return to it, as it is only for a few weeks in each rainy season that they could approach the Colony of Western Australia, as it is bounded on the east by a waterless scrub, which has been penetrated at several points some 200 miles; and this tract of country, which perhaps extends as much farther into the interior, can only be traversed in the wet seasons, when a little water collects on the bare rocks which exist at wide intervals, there being no water-courses, and the lower parts of the valleys occupied by salt marshes and lakes of brine. Even in following the coast to Shark's Bay I was nearly four days without water while crossing the scrubby plains north of the settlements, and only found one well of water during a search of thirteen days' duration.

Moreton Bay thus becomes the most eligible point for the organisation of an exploring party, and by following down partially the Victoria River of Sir T. Mitchell, a good position for a depôt could be selected, from which a lightly equiped party could push to the westward by taking a sweep to the north of Sturt's furthest point.

I expect shortly to visit the country to the N.W. of Moreton Bay, with a view of searching for traces of Dr. Leichhardt and his party, and, if possible, to ascertain the fate of that unfortunate explorer: and should any important features of the country be discovered, a knowledge of which might be of use to an exploring party, I shall feel pleasure in communicating all information relative thereto, as I apprehend that if the expedition is undertaken it could not start before the period of my return, as the preliminary arrangements and organisation of the party would occupy several months.

An opinion is prevalent that the range of hills which gives Eastern Australia the singular character of large streams descending into a depressed interior, will be found to extend along the north and west coasts. This is not the case, as the mountain range terminates at Cape York, and except the small tract of hills in South Australia, no ranges exist to the west of the 142nd meridian, the whole of the western portion of the continent bring only a sandy table-land, the edges of which are serated by small watercourses which descend its slope to the coast. Thus in forming an estimate of the difficulties to be encountered in that portion of Australia, we must not adopt any experience of the country within the occupied portion of it. Were the obstacles so insignificant Australia ere this had ceased to be a field for exploration.

In conclusion I beg to assure you that I shall ever feel a warm interest in whatever may tend to the development of the resources of this continent.

And believe me to remain,

Yours very truly,

A. C. Gregory.

In reference to the statement made by Mr. Gregory as to the prevalence of salt water in many districts, particularly of the western interior, Mr. Blansdowski

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Blandowski.

expressed an opinion that this circumstance should not of itself deter an explorer, since in other districts of Australia fresh and salt water lakes were frequently found in proximity to each other.

Dr. Mueller explained that under the rapid evaporation in the dry atmosphere of the desert, combined with the solution of salt particles from the soil, stagnant water became entirely undrinkable, and this even after heavy thunder showers. Such waters might be comparatively fresh, and he deduced in illustration the experience in this respect of Mr. Oakden in the country west of Lake Torrens. Dr. Mueller at the same time admitted that drainage water collecting in a sandy or not saline ground might always afford a supply of fresh water, as in the instance of Lake Benanee. From previous experience, however, large depressed tracts of saline country of recent formation might be expected in the interior desert, which, it might be anticipated, would be but scantily provided with fresh water.

Dr. Mueller thought that the "Second Darling" (The "Paroo") described by the natives to Mr. Blandowski, as existing to the north of the River Darling, would probably prove to be a continuation of the Warrego Creek, and if so would greatly facilitate an expedition northward from the Darling. Such, at least, would yield an oasis in the desert, similar to those on Eyre's Creek, Cooper's Creek, and Sturt's Creek, and which will always be of the highest importance to travellers proceeding towards central Australia.

Dr. Wilkie and Mr. Blandowski urged that the route selected should be that from Port Curtis, proceeding to the junction of the Victoria and Thomson Rivers, at or near the junction of which a depôt should be established.

Dr. Mueller, in supporting the amendment to this motion, contrasted the facility for the transit of stores furnished by the Murray steam navigation, almost to the point of unexplored country, with the difficult and partially mountainous route to be traversed when transporting, under not less expense, large quantities of stores from the east coast to the junction of the rivers named. He pointed out, also, that in selecting the Darling route a direct line of communication would most probably be established between our own colony and the Victoria River.

The amendment was supported by the Hon. Mr. Hodgson, in consequence of Mr. Blandowski's remarks on the existence of permanent water not far north of the Darling, which seemed to augur so favorably for that route. Mr. Hodgson expressed himself as influenced, also, in his decision, by Mr. Gregory's communication. The amendment was carried.

On the motion of the Hon. Mr. Hodgson, it was unanimously resolved to organise at once a light party for the exploration of the country from the Darling to the junction of the Victoria and Thomson Rivers. Mr. Blandowski, in reply to a question from the Hon. Captain Clarke, R.E., stated that, in his opinion, a period of eight months (five of which to be employed in actual exploration) would be sufficient for this purpose. He adverted to the necessity of immediate despatch in the necessary preparations, in order to reap the full advantage of the next rainy season. The sum of two thousand pounds was deemed sufficient for efficiently crrrying

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out this exploit.

Your Committee having thus reviewed the evidence that was before them, with respect to the practicability of fitting out in Victoria a geographical expedition to traverse this continent from east to west, as near the tropic of Capricorn as the features of the country would permit, have to state that they are unanimous in opinion that the route indicated is without doubt, that which would prove in every point of view the most valuable in its results, if it could be accomplished.

In order to make the attempt, however, with any prospect of success, it would be necessary to form, at or near the junction of the Thomson and Victoria Rivers a depôt, amply furnished with stores and cattle sufficient for a period of at least two years. The expedition would necessarily be a costly one, and your Committee fear that even under the most favourable circumstances it would be a hazardous undertaking. For these reasons your Committee are not prepared to recommend that immediate steps should be taken to organise an expedition for this great line of exploration, but they entertain the confident hope that the time is not far distant when this desirable object may be successfully undertaken by an expedition fitted out in Victoria.

In recommending a less important and a less expensive expedition to be first undertaken, your Committee have had in view, first, the fact that Mr. Gregory is at present engaged in organising an exploring party in search of Leichhardt, and that he will in all probability traverse the country between the east coast and the proposed depôt in the Victoria River, and on his return may be able to furnish important information for guiding us as to the future exploration of the interior; secondly, that it is at present uncertain whether it would be better to reach the proposed depôt from Victoria by the Darling, or from the east coast, as considerable difficulties would have to be encountered in either case.

Your Committee recommend that the exploring party should reach the Darling River before the beginning of March; and, according to the evidence already stated, they hope that the party will be able to accomplish this route to the Victoria River and back in less than five months. By that time Mr. Gregory will most likely have returned from his expedition in search of Leichhardt, and we should also be in possession of important information respecting the country to the north-west of Lake Torrens, the exploring of which is at present engaging the attention of the south Australian Government. We shall thus it is hoped, be in a much better position to undertake the more difficult and hazardous expedition afterwards through Central Australia. In recommending to the Institute this shorter and less expensive expedition, preparatory to the more important exploration of the interior, your Committee hope that the Institute will thus more readily obtain the support of the Government; nor can they feel indifferent to the advantage of leading the path of civilisation into a portion of the interior which, although politically belonging to New South Wales, may, commercially, be regarded as an enlargement of the Victorian territory.

Your Committee would also express the hope that the proposed expedition may possibly gain from the natives some traditional information respecting Leichhardt's fate, and would recommend that the expedition be specially instructed to embrace every opportunity of searching on their route for traces of that ill-fated explorer. Your Committee are of opinion that in the proposed expedition from the Darling the number of the party should be limited to four and a leader, in order to secure a more certain and speedy progress, and that the pack-horses may be safely reduced to twelve with two saddle-horses, which, with judicious arrangements, would carry an ample supply of provisions and all the requisites for an exploration of this tract of country during one rainy season; and as Victoria is now for the first time invited to take part in the honorable task of exploration, your Committee indulge the hope that the liberality of the colonists of Victoria, aided by a grant from the Legislature, will enable the Philosophical Institute to take immediate steps to carry out the object contemplated.

Your Committee refer with pleasure to Mr. Gregory's letter, which they have embodied in their report, and they are desirous to express their acknowledgment of the valuable information which it has afforded them. While Mr. Gregory, from long practical experience as an explorer, takes a somewhat desponding view of the probable nature of the unexplored country in Australia, and of the difficulties and dangers that would have to be encountered in any attempt to penetrate the great interior desert from east to west, your Committee are glad that he does not altogether dissuage them from making the attempt. On the contrary, he suggests Moreton Bay as the most eligible place under existing circumstances for fitting out an expedition for this purpose, and recommends that a depôt should be formed at an advanced point on the Victoria River, from which a light party might be pushed to the westward, shaping their course to the northward of Sturt's furthest point; thus strengthening the opinions already adopted by your Committee on the best mode of exploring the vast interior of this continent.

The uncertainty and scarcity of water is the grand obstacle to all future exploration; but even if it should be impossible to penetrate the desert to any great distance from the depôt on the Victoria River, from the total want of surface water, your Committee think it would perhaps be practicable for a light party to discover some favorable spot for securing permanent water from the tropical rains by artificial means, and thus to form more advance outposts in the desert, from which further explorations could be made, with the hope of ultimately succeeding in penetrating through the whole continent from east to west.

However discouraging the exploration of this desert may appear, your Committee attach great importance to the information communicated by Dr. Mueller, that there are in these inhospitable regions occasional heavy falls of rain, and the salt lake in latitude 20° south, into which Sturt's Creek empties itself, although dry when discovered by Mr. Gregory, indicates by its immense size (being thirty miles in circumference) that a very large body of water must flow into it at certain times. From the general nature of the surface, the rain-water is very rapidly lost by absorption and evaporation; but there are reasons for believing that it will be possible in some grassy flats and in some clay soils to secure for the purposes of outposts an artificial supply of permanent water.

Your Committee have had under their consideration a lengthy communication from Mr. Belt, a member of the Institute, who proposes to undertake alone an expedition from the Gulf of Carpentaria to Adelaide. All that he requires is to be landed at the mouth of the Albert River, with five horses, provided with water-bags and a small supply of provisions and oats.

He expects to be able to reach Sturt's furtherest point without difficulty, and then to follow his track to Adelaide.

Your Committee need only observe that the hostility and rapacity of the natives would render it extremely hazardous for one man to undertake such an expedition, not to mention the impossibility of one man leading or driving five horses through a scrubby, and it may be a waterless, country. They cannot, however, withhold their admiration of the zeal and courage displayed by Mr. Belt in thus offering single-handed to undertake so difficult and hazardous an expedition.

It only remains for your Committee to recommend the appointment of an Exploration Committee, with full powers to carry out the proposed object, and with authority to make an immediate application on behalf of the Institute to Her Majesty's Government to place the sum of £2,500 sterling on the Estimates to aid the expedition.

A list of articles required for this expedition has been kindly furnished to your Committee by Dr. Mueller, and is appended to this report.

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See also Wilkie, M & Macadam to the Philosophical Insitute of Victoria, 26 May 1858.

LIST OF ARTICLES RECOMMENDED FOR THE EXPEDITION BY DR. MUELLER.

5 saddle horses.

12 pack horses.

12 ditto saddles.

5 saddles.

17 saddle cloths.

24 saddle bags.

5 revolvers

5 carabines.

1 sextant.

1 artificial horizon.

Nautical Almanack.

1 telescope.

Compasses.

34 pairs of hobbles, with nails.

34 sets of horse shoes.

2 Aneroid barometers.

2 thermometers.

1½ tons of provisions (one year's provision for five, sugar, tea, flour, meat).

Ammunition.

2 very light canvas tents.

Straps and spare saddlery.

Hammer and other implements for shoeing horses.

Tomahawks.

A few thin iron pots, pannikins.

Waterproof bags for carrying water.

Spare boots (a pair for each individual.

Material for preserving skins of animals.

Paper for drying plants, half a ream.

Ropes, spring scales.

Spurs, clothing and blankets.

Matches, soap.

Fish-hooks, cordage.

Writing paper, note-books, &c.

Spade and pick, knives, bells.

The correspondence of

Ferdinand von Mueller

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